Raireshwar fort is a hill fort in Bhor Tehshil of Pune district, and 85 km away from Pune city. Raireshwar has a temple famous for its historical importance where Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj took the oath of foundation of ‘Hindavi Swarajya’ in 1645.
We started our journey at 8.30 am and reached the base of the fort around 10am, we followed route via Bhor which is very narrow and not recommended for large vehicles. There is another route via Wai which is good.
There is a small village settlement of the top of the fort. You have to climb iron ladders to reach the top and is the only way to reach the fort. Ensure that you carry plenty of water with you. After reaching the top we had breakfast and enjoyed kanda bhaji, wadapav and kokam sharbat at the only stall available there, its open only on weekends. We visited all the places on the fort except seven coloured soil.
Raireshwar Fort
Raireshwar Temple
This is a beautiful place to visit during the monsoon or the winter season. The views from the fort are just breath taking. Ideal place for a one day trek and can also be made a two day trek if you plan to visit Rohida and Kenjalgad.
Kenjalgad Fort seen from Raireshwar Fort
We left the fort around 1.30 pm and visited Sardar Kanhoji Jedhe and Jeeva Mahale samadhi at village Ambawade.
Sardar Kanhoji Jedhe Statue
Sardar Kanhoji Jedhe Samadhi
Jeeva Mahale Samadhi
There is a beautiful temple of Lord Shiva called Nageshwar, which is family deity of Sardar Kanhoji Jedhe.
Nageshwar Temple
Lord Nageshwar
After taking blessings from Nageshwar we reached at Sardar Kanhoji Jedhe wada at village Kari in 20 minutes. Its renewed house and a small museum where you can see few historical things. Descendants of Kanhoji Jedhe live there and who greet and speak with utmost affection to everyone who visits.
We planned to visit Mahalaxmi temple at Kolhapur and Panhala fort on weekend, 8th January 2023, Sunday.
Panhala fort is 20 kilometers northwest of Kolhapur in
Maharashtra. Due to its strategic location, it was the center of several
battles in the Deccan involving the Marathas, the Mughals, the most notable being the Battle of Pawan Khind. The shape of fort is zigzagged hence it is called
Panhala (Shape of Serpents).
History of the fort -
Panhala fort was built between 1178 and 1209 CE, by the Raja
Bhoj. Gangu Teli is associated with this fort that led to the phrase “Kahan Raja Bhoj aur Kahan Gangu Teli.” On the establishment of the Adil
Shahi dynasty of Bijapur in 1489, Panhala came under Bijapur and was
fortified extensively. They built the strong ramparts and gateways of the fort
which, according to tradition, took a hundred years to build.
In 1659, after the death of the Bijapur general Afzal Khan, Shivaji took Panhala from Bijapur. In May 1660, to win back the fort from Shivaji, Adil Shah sent his army under the command of Siddi Johar to lay siege to Panhala. Shivaji fought back and they could not take the fort. The siege continued for 5 months, at the end of which all provisions in the fort were exhausted and Shivaji was on the verge of being captured.
Under these circumstances, Shivaji decided that escape was the only option. He gathered a small number of soldiers along with his trusted commander Baji Prabhu Deshpande and, on 13 July 1660, they escaped in the dead of night to flee to Vishalgad. Baji Prabhu and Shiva Kashid, who looked like Shivaji, kept the enemy engaged, giving them an impression that Shiva Kashid was actually Shivaji. In the ensuing battle, almost three quarters of the one thousand strong force died, including Baji Prabhu himself. The fort went to Adil Shah. It was not until 1673 that Shivaji could occupy it permanently.
The Fort of Panhala has served as a place where Chhatrapati
Shivaji Maharaj spent many days of his life. It is believed that Chhatrapti Shivaji Maharaj
spent over 16 months of his life in the fort. Also Tarabai, the queen of Kolhapur spent her formative year in
the fort.
We went to Narsobawadi (Nursinhwadi) on Saturday and stayed there. On Sunday morning we headed towards Kolhapur around 8.30 am after having breakfast at Trimurti Nashta Center and reached at Mahalaxmi temple around 10 am. After parking our vehicle at Bindu Chowk it took us 30 minutes to reach the temple. As it was Sunday there were rush at the temple, and we had to stand in the queue for more than an hour for darshan. After taking blessing from Mahalaxmi we went to Fadtare Misal which is very famous in Kolhapur. There were also waiting as the place is little small and there are 10-12 tables only. We waited for an hour and then enjoyed misal. I feel the place is overhyped as misal taste was ok and they serve breads. We reached at Bindu chowk where our car is parked by autorickshaw and started our journey towards Panhala and reached the fort around 2.30pm.
You don't need to climb the fort, you can visit complete fort by your own vehicle. Once we reached there few young folks came forward and asked if we need help to explore the fort and they were guides. We took guide who name was Kiran Karande, only because of him we could see most of the places in 2 hours as we had to leave Pune around 4pm.
Statue of Veer Baji Prabhu Deshpande
As you enter Panhala, you see the huge statue of Baji Prabhu Deshpande. The legend is that he died battling thousands of enemy soldiers with few of his warriors so that Shivaji Maharaj could reach Vishalgad safely. At the entrance there is a statue of Veer Shiva Kashid.
Map of the fort
The fortification of Panhala fort covers approximately 8 kilomteres, which define the approximately triangular zone of Panhala fort. The walls are protected for long sections by steep escarpments, reinforced by a parapet with slit holes. The remaining sections have 5-9 metro high ramparts without a parapet, strengthened by round bastions the most notable of which is Rajdindi.
Andhar Bav
Andhar Bav -
It is a hidden well. It was the prime source of water. Whenever an army besieged a fort, their first action was to poison the main water source of the fort. To counter this, Adil Shah commissioned the building of the Andhar Bavadi. This is a three-storey structure with winding staircases that conceal the well which was the main water source for Panhala fort. There are recesses in the wall so that soldiers can be permanently stationed. Several hidden escape routes in the Andhar Bavai lead outside the fort. With its own water source, living quarters and its own exit routes, it is likely this structure was designed like a fort within a fort with the intention of making it an emergency shelter in case the main fort fell.
Shivaji Maharaj Temple, Panhala
Shivaji Maharaj Temple -
Rajshree Shahu Maharaj has built the temple of Shivaji Maharaj. But the temple was closed and got to know from guide that only on certain days it opens for darshan.
Kalavanticha Mahal-
The name of this building, which is also called Nayakini Sajja. It stands on the east side of the fort close to the rampart.
Ambarkhana
Ganga Kothi
Ambarkhana-
The Amberkhana, situated in the center of the fort, were three granaries built in the Bijapuri style of architecture. They enabled Shivaji to withstand a 5-month siege by Siddhi Johar. It consists of three buildings called the Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati Kothis. Ganga kothi was the largest with a capacity of 25,000 khandis. Looking at the size of the granaries one can imagine the amount of grains it can hold. With that kind of storage, at times of siege, the army could have sustained itself for years. It has stairs on both sides lead the top of the buildings. It has sixteen bays each with its own flat vault with a hole on top through which grain used to be passed. The eastern entrance has a domed chamber with a balcony and plasterwork of the Bijapuri style.
Sajja Kothi-
There are few interesting places to see at Panhala. “Sajja Kothi”, a multi storey structure. The view from this place is panoramic. In fact, you can get a splendid view from almost anywhere in Panhala for hundreds of kilometres around. That probably explains the reason for building the fort here as a vantage point to look out and ward of enemies.
Teen Darwaja (1)
Teen Darwaja (2)
Teen Darwaja (3, outer one)
Teen Darwaza-
The “Teen Darwaza”, or the “Three Gates” on the western side of the fort are massive stone structures. They look indestructible. British army eventually did breach it with the help of traitors inside. It is an absorbing story. Our guide did show us the spots where British cannon balls had damaged the structure but we had no way of verifying its authenticity.
Wagh Darwaza -
This was another entrance to the fort. It was designed to elude invaders such that they would get trapped in a small courtyard and could then be easily neutralized. It has an elaborate Ganesh motif at the entrance.
Rajdindi bastion -
The Rajdindi bastion was one of the hidden exits of the fort to be used in times of an emergency. It was used by Shivaji to escape to Vishalgad during the Battle of Pavan Khind. Rajdindi is still intact.
The palace of Tarabai, arguably the fort's most famous resident, is still intact. It is now used to house a school, several government offices.
Masai Pathar seen from the fort
Konkan side view from Dutondi Buruj
Near Dutondi buruj you can see a bungalow from marathi movie Dhumdhadaka (in movie this house was shown belong to Dhanaji Wakade portrayed by senior actor Sharad Talwalkar)
With a few budget hotels and MTDC resort are options in Panhala, but most people prefer to book into hotels at Kolhapur.
Best time to visit Panhala Fort -
Best time to visit Panhala is in winter season when weather is pleasant. This occupies a prime place in the history of Maharashtra and is also a favorite destination as a hill station. It is one of the largest forts in deccan region.
While the cool and pleasant climate of Panhala relieves you
of your stress and the pollution-free atmosphere gives you a great escape from
city life. We left for Pune around 5 pm and reached home at 11 pm.
It was really amazing experience, we could not visit Parashar Muni Caves, Veer Shiva Kashid Samadhi, Garden at the Fort etc.
Contacts -
1. Kiran Karande (Guide at Panhala Fort) - 8805785580
Sinhagad Fort is a favourite weekend
gateway for Punekars as it is a very scenic location and just approximately 30km from Pune.
The fort has been standing there
since about 700 years and has a long history associated with Great King Chatrapati Shivaji
Maharaj. The hero behind this fort was great maratha worrier Tanaji Malusare. Sinhagad was called
‘Kondhana’ after the sage Kaundinya. The Kaundinyeshwar temple, the caves and
the carvings indicate that this fort had probably been built two thousand years
back.
Sinhagad Fort has to be one of my
favourite places because of the numerous reasons –scenic drive, view from the
top, scrumptious authentic food, history and much more.
It was our sudden plan to visit
Sinhagad fort. We(Myself, Kiran, Snehal and Abhijit) left from Pune around 3pm on our bikes. You can
go there by car or by bike. The vehicle has to pay a toll(Rs. 20 for bike and Rs
50 for Car) at the base to reach the fort. Local buses are available every hour from Pune
or you can reach by shared taxi or auto. Nowadays, every time I visit the fort,
I can see groups of bikers and trekkers.
The road runs by the side of a dam
which is a huge water body and looks simply amazing. At places, you can find
lots of local shops selling corns and people enjoying the cool and calm water
of the dam. The mountains are full of fog and whole Pune City is visible
which looks amazing. Also, the water of the dam does stretches into a huge area.
The picturesque road is available until the parking at the top. Due to
heavy traffic and rains, the roads are in bad shape but the drive to the fort
is scenic.
The road from base village to the fort
is small and parking the vehicles on both the side of the road makes it
narrower. Close to 1.5-2 km road from the fort is used as a parking area and
people park their vehicles wherever they find space thus blocking the road and
resulting in a traffic jam. If you want to avoid traffic jams and get a good
parking slot then start the early morning as the place gets crowded after 10 AM.
We reached the fort around 4pm. A
place full of lush green mountains, it’s a must-visit place for nature lovers and trekkers.
Most of the fort is destroyed; it still has a lot to offer. Apart from its historical
importance; it is also a hot stop for a lot of trekkers. It is also a part of
the training for the cadets of the National Defense Academy situated very close
to this place.
One can easily spend 4-5 hours or a
half-day picnic with family and friends. Sinhagad Fort is usually crowded on
weekends and holidays. It is so fascinating to imagine the history behind the
remains. What would have been the life then!! I am amazed every time I visit the fort.
From one side of the fort, you can see
the popular Khadakwasla Dam and on the other side, you will see the beautiful
landscape. You will forget about all tiredness when you see this
breathtaking view.
After strolling the fort for a couple
of hours, one can grab the most famous Pithla Bhakri, Thecha, Kanda Bhaji,
Kulfi, and never to miss the locally produced Matka Dahi. I love the Matka Dahi
with Jira powder the most. The shopkeepers are the residents from nearby villagers
and carry all the stuff every day from the villages to uphill and that too on
their feet. It was fun to eat raw mangoes, cucumbers, corn, berries
and buttermilk sold on the way. Don’t forget to taste
the tasty “Kaccha Aam”.
After having snacks we roamed around
the fort for an hour and explored few places. We saw the memorial of great Maratha
worrier Tanaji Malusare.
Narveer Tanaji Malusare statue at Sinhgad
Tanaji Kada is the place from
where Mavale(Maratha soldiers) climbed up the fort and attacked Mughals.
There is a house of the great freedom
fighter Lokmanya Tilak as he came to stay on the fort.
There are many small temples on the
fort. There are a number of water tanks on the fort. But Devtaki is the most famous one. The water is cold and sweet, when you visit do taste it. Only this water tank can be used for drinking water.
The strong wind along with mist, fog
and rains at the famous ‘Hawa point’ was an experience to remember. ‘Kade lot’
is also a popular point. It is said that in olden days the prisoners were
thrown off from this cliff.
Due to monsoon, the weather there was
cold and was raining frequently. The fog, mist, drizzle and the blowing wind made our walk at the fort memorable. Once the fog clears, you can see
Khadakwasla dam and Torna fort from the top. The breathtaking views
are addictive. I can go there almost every day. The drizzle and
cold breeze added to our pleasant experience. It’s a perfect location to spend a wonderful
time with your family and friends.
Travelers!!
After relaxing for two hours we started
to descend.
If you have not yet visited the fort please do visit in monsoon, I am sure you will like it. Also, do not forget to carry your camera to capture the beautiful pictures.
