Glimpse of history: Panhala Fort, Kolhapur

We planned to visit Mahalaxmi temple at Kolhapur and Panhala fort on weekend, 8th January 2023, Sunday. 

Panhala fort is 20 kilometers northwest of Kolhapur in Maharashtra. Due to its strategic location, it was the center of several battles in the Deccan involving the Marathas, the Mughals, the most notable being the Battle of Pawan Khind.  The shape of fort is zigzagged hence it is called Panhala (Shape of Serpents).

History of the fort -

Panhala fort was built between 1178 and 1209 CE, by the Raja Bhoj. Gangu Teli is associated with this fort that led to the phrase “Kahan Raja Bhoj aur Kahan Gangu Teli.” On the establishment of the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur in 1489, Panhala came under Bijapur and was fortified extensively. They built the strong ramparts and gateways of the fort which, according to tradition, took a hundred years to build.

In 1659, after the death of the Bijapur general Afzal Khan, Shivaji took Panhala from Bijapur. In May 1660, to win back the fort from Shivaji, Adil Shah sent his army under the command of Siddi Johar to lay siege to Panhala. Shivaji fought back and they could not take the fort. The siege continued for 5 months, at the end of which all provisions in the fort were exhausted and Shivaji was on the verge of being captured.

Under these circumstances, Shivaji decided that escape was the only option. He gathered a small number of soldiers along with his trusted commander Baji Prabhu Deshpande and, on 13 July 1660, they escaped in the dead of night to flee to Vishalgad. Baji Prabhu and Shiva Kashid, who looked like Shivaji, kept the enemy engaged, giving them an impression that Shiva Kashid was actually Shivaji. In the ensuing battle, almost three quarters of the one thousand strong force died, including Baji Prabhu himself. The fort went to Adil Shah. It was not until 1673 that Shivaji could occupy it permanently.

The Fort of Panhala has served as a place where Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj spent many days of his life. It is believed that Chhatrapti Shivaji Maharaj spent over 16 months of his life in the fort. Also Tarabai, the queen of Kolhapur spent her formative year in the fort. 

We went to Narsobawadi (Nursinhwadi) on Saturday and stayed there. On Sunday morning we headed towards Kolhapur around 8.30 am after having breakfast at Trimurti Nashta Center and reached at Mahalaxmi temple around 10 am. After parking our vehicle at Bindu Chowk it took us 30 minutes to reach the temple.  As it was Sunday there were rush at the temple, and we had to stand in the queue for more than an hour for darshan.  After taking blessing from Mahalaxmi we went to Fadtare Misal which is very famous in Kolhapur. There were also waiting as the place is little small and there are 10-12 tables only. We  waited for an hour and then enjoyed misal. I feel the place is overhyped as misal taste was ok and they serve breads. We reached at Bindu chowk where our car is parked by autorickshaw and started our journey towards Panhala and reached the fort around 2.30pm. 

You don't need to climb the fort, you can visit complete fort by your own vehicle. Once we reached there few young folks came forward and asked if we need help to explore the fort and they were guides. We took guide who name was Kiran Karande, only because of him we could see most of the places in 2 hours as we had to leave Pune around 4pm. 

Statue of Veer Baji Prabhu Deshpande

As you enter Panhala, you see the huge statue of Baji Prabhu Deshpande. The legend is that he died battling thousands of enemy soldiers with few of his warriors so that Shivaji Maharaj could reach Vishalgad safely. At the entrance there is a statue of Veer Shiva Kashid. 

Map of the fort

The fortification of Panhala fort covers approximately 8 kilomteres, which define the approximately triangular zone of Panhala fort. The walls are protected for long sections by steep escarpments, reinforced by a parapet with slit holes. The remaining sections have 5-9 metro high ramparts without a parapet, strengthened by round bastions the most notable of which is Rajdindi.

Andhar Bav

Andhar Bav -

It is a hidden well. It was the prime source of water. Whenever an army besieged a fort, their first action was to poison the main water source of the fort. To counter this, Adil Shah commissioned the building of the Andhar Bavadi. This is a three-storey structure with winding staircases that conceal the well which was the main water source for Panhala fort. There are recesses in the wall so that soldiers can be permanently stationed. Several hidden escape routes in the Andhar Bavai lead outside the fort. With its own water source, living quarters and its own exit routes, it is likely this structure was designed like a fort within a fort with the intention of making it an emergency shelter in case the main fort fell. 

Shivaji Maharaj Temple, Panhala

Shivaji Maharaj Temple - 

Rajshree Shahu Maharaj has built the temple of Shivaji Maharaj. But the temple was closed and got to know from guide that only on certain days it opens for darshan.

Kalavanticha Mahal-

The name of this building, which is also called Nayakini Sajja. It stands on the east side of the fort close to the rampart. 

Ambarkhana

Ganga Kothi

Ambarkhana-

The Amberkhana, situated in the center of the fort, were three granaries built in the Bijapuri style of architecture. They enabled Shivaji to withstand a 5-month siege by Siddhi Johar. It consists of three buildings called the Ganga, Yamuna and Saraswati Kothis. Ganga kothi was the largest with a capacity of 25,000 khandis. Looking at the size of the granaries one can imagine the amount of grains it can hold. With that kind of storage, at times of siege, the army could have sustained itself for years. It has stairs on both sides lead the top of the buildings. It has sixteen bays each with its own flat vault with a hole on top through which grain used to be passed. The eastern entrance has a domed chamber with a balcony and plasterwork of the Bijapuri style. 

Sajja Kothi-

There are few interesting places to see at Panhala. “Sajja Kothi”, a multi storey structure. The view from this place is panoramic. In fact, you can get a splendid view from almost anywhere in Panhala for hundreds of kilometres around. That probably explains the reason for building the fort here as a vantage point to look out and ward of enemies.

Teen Darwaja (1)

Teen Darwaja (2)

Teen Darwaja (3, outer one)

Teen Darwaza-

The “Teen Darwaza”, or the “Three Gates” on the western side of the fort are massive stone structures. They look indestructible. British army eventually did breach it with the help of traitors inside. It is an absorbing story. Our guide did show us the spots where British cannon balls had damaged the structure but we had no way of verifying its authenticity.

Wagh Darwaza - 

This was another entrance to the fort. It was designed to elude invaders such that they would get trapped in a small courtyard and could then be easily neutralized. It has an elaborate Ganesh motif at the entrance.

Rajdindi bastion -

The Rajdindi bastion was one of the hidden exits of the fort to be used in times of an emergency. It was used by Shivaji to escape to Vishalgad during the Battle of Pavan Khind. Rajdindi is still intact. 

The palace of Tarabai, arguably the fort's most famous resident, is still intact. It is now used to house a school, several government offices. 

Masai Pathar seen from the fort

Konkan side view from Dutondi Buruj

Near Dutondi buruj you can see a bungalow from marathi movie Dhumdhadaka (in movie this house was shown belong to Dhanaji Wakade portrayed by senior actor Sharad Talwalkar)

With a few budget hotels and MTDC resort are options in Panhala, but most people prefer to book into hotels at Kolhapur.  

Best time to visit Panhala Fort - 

Best time to visit Panhala is in winter season when weather is pleasant. This occupies a prime place in the history of Maharashtra and is also a favorite destination as a hill station. It is one of the largest forts in deccan region. 

While the cool and pleasant climate of Panhala relieves you of your stress and the pollution-free atmosphere gives you a great escape from city life. We left for Pune around 5 pm and reached home at 11 pm.

It was really amazing experience, we could not visit Parashar Muni Caves, Veer Shiva Kashid Samadhi, Garden at the Fort etc.

Contacts - 

1. Kiran Karande (Guide at Panhala Fort) - 8805785580

2. Soman Yatri Niwas, Narsobawadi - 9730505588

3. Soman Bhojanalay Narsobawadi (Sachin Soman) - 9404410099

Useful Information - 

1. Entry fee at Panhala - 80 Rs.

2. Guide Fee at Panhala- 500 Rs.

3. Fadtare Misal to Bindu Chowk auto charges - 40 Rs.